Via Vita Restaurant and Cafe

This week’s restaurant on the New Brunswick Restaurant Guide is Via Vita. Since the close of the West End Coffee House, Via Vita is the only true, non-corporate owned coffee house in New Brunswick. The cozy atmosphere, while inchoate, is warm and welcoming. The building, on the corner of Condict Street and Easton Ave, must have been a hacienda in another life. Although not an ideal situation for a French café, it works. The exposed brick everywhere, warm colors, and snug atmosphere make for an enjoyable experience.

The fare is simple, French café food at reasonable prices. I started with a classic French sandwich, the Croque Monsieur. If the French Army is a grilled cheese sandwich, a Croque Monsieur is the French Foreign Legion. Unlike the easily defeated white bread and yellow cheese, this sandwich was silky-Gruyere Swiss cheese, and thick, soft, panini bread. But it doesn’t stop there. In addition, there is a layer of copacolla ham, a sort of non-greasy, slightly spicy, alternative to bacon. Lastly, the sandwich is topped with a chopped hard-boiled egg. The sandwich is moist, filling, and savory; if it took the field of battle, it could be led by Napoleon.

Next we ordered a warm sandwich of roast beef, caramelized onions, garlic basil aioli, and crumbled gorgonzola cheese. The roast beef was a good foundation- but it was no match for the garlic basil aioli, a sort of garlic flavored, ancient Gaul version of mayonnaise. The caramelized onions were a perfect match to the crumbled, biting bleu of the gorgonzola cheese.

Lastly, our table sampled Printaniere. If egg salad is Curious George, this sandwich is King Kong. The base is egg salad, with copious amounts of ham, provolone, cucumber, celery and French mustard. This glorious mixture is served on the most divine of breads, a French baguette. (The French word for spring is printemps, and the sandwich is named this in homage to the veggies therein.)

The meal would not be complete without a proper French dessert. We ordered a crepe (wafer-thin pancake) with Nutella, a hazelnut flavored chocolate sauce, fresh bananas and walnuts. Oh la la; it was delicious. The coffee and tea were wonderful as well- served in large cups like soup bowls, cradling it with both hands on a chilly November day warms wonderfully.

The service was friendly and responsive, a true pleasure in which to dine. The same menu is used for breakfast, lunch and dinner, making Via Vita a bit pricey for breakfast, a good lunch spot, and an absolute steal at dinner time. French food is much better with wine, so bring a bottle. (Or a box if you fancy.) No need for reservations; drop in, get a seat near the window, and watch the passerby for an hour or four. Bon appetite!

LOCATION: 58 Easton Ave
PHONE: (732)-220-0122
PRICE: $10 to $15 per person
AMBIANCE: Informal

SoHo on George

This week’s restaurant review focuses on SoHo on George. Several feelings hit you upon entering the door located right on George Street: First, the lively attitude of the patrons at the bar, eating a quick meal before a show at the State Theatre. Second, the spacious interior feels at once solid, yet beckoning. Lastly, the clientele all seem to be out for a special occasion. Whether a birthday, promotion, or just a nice night out, every person in the place seems to have a more convivial attitude than usual.

This feeling is promoted by the staff who offer drinks before they utter the word “Hello”. So we started with Manhattans. A classic cocktail, the dash of bitters is as fruity and pungent as the freshly fallen autumn leaves. The bread course was deliciously hearty as well, consisting of warm, buttered, whole wheat rolls, accompanied by olive tapenade and a roasted red pepper puree.

Our appetizer was just as seasonal, it being a deep fried slice of brie on fresh greens, covered with a fig and brandy sauce. The warm brie was a perfect balance to the cool greens, and the whole dish ended sweetly with the fig and brandy sauce.
The entrées were delicious as well. One was rack of lamb with dried fruit couscous. The petite lamb was tender and perfectly cooked. The couscous really stole the show however, as it was slightly sweetened by the fruit. The whole dish was interesting, as something sweet is traditionally served with lamb. The sweet flavor does not normally end up in the “pasta” dish, however, and it was a nice surprise. The other entrée was a stuffed pork chop, nearly the size of a softball, filled with chorizo, cheese and spinach, and covered with a mango salsa. This was a perfect combination of flavors, and a great plate for someone with a big appetite.

The dinner was not without incident, unfortunately. Our hostess sat us, and another person took our drink order. Our waiter then arrived, followed by a food runner, and then our waiter again, informing us the other “guy” delivered the wrong plate. While this may go against the restaurant chain of command, I would like to think the rapport built between one waiter in the 3 hour course of the meal would be a benefit, rather than a detriment to the service.

Lastly, the décor could use an update. A portion of the restaurant screams early 1990’s, and while a bottle of Scotch from the time would be great right now, it feels like one is eating on the set of “In Living Color”.

While the potpourri of flavors and genres is surprising, and the interior design was done by the “Golden Girls”, SoHo is a great place to celebrate with great food. Don’t forget your wallet.

Tula Restaurant and Lounge

If you just eat, rather than dine, if you feel more comfortable with a paper bib rather than a cloth napkin, or good manners make you uncomfortable, stop reading immediately. TGIF called, and they’re holding your (lack of) reservation for you. For all of you still reading, Tula is on the way to becoming the best restaurant in New Brunswick. The food is beyond reproach- feel free to complain about anything, but you’re probably wrong. The interior is immaculate- natural colors, exquisite tiling, perfect sound, and wispy curtains to prevent any uncomfortable, outdoor draft. The staff is well trained, knowledgeable, and attentive. Without even tasting the food, one can already tell this is one of the best in the city.

Our appetizer was a watermelon ceviche. The ratio was perfect: about 2 parts chopped, lime-marinated seafood to 1 part crunchy vegetables. The acidity in the lime begins to breakdown the crab, tilapia, and shrimp, tenderizing the seafood, turning every piece into a morsel. Our main course was a lemon risotto with cherry tomatoes and scallops. The rice, with a perfectly light lemon flavor, enhanced by lemon-zest oil, was the piece de resistance. Skip the scallops, as their texture does nothing to enhance the risotto. Instead, go with a side dish outside your comfort zone. The truffle sautéed spinach, for example, was deliciously earthy. Lastly, a balsamic marinated, grilled Portobello mushroom salad balanced out the meal. The sharp greens, with sweet balsamic and mellow mushrooms were a nice counterpart to the previous lime and lemon flavors. In addition, a nice bleu cheese was crumbled on top. This was not average, mayonnaise covered, hot-wing dipping sauce. This was authentic, room temperature, French bleu cheese. It was dry; meaning the cheese is not kept in an icebox where it dies, but in a room temperature environment where the natural flavors can come to the forefront.

With each course the staff dutifully cleared all plates and silverware, making each course seem as if a mini-meal unto itself. This allowed us to enjoy each dish individually, resulting in an experience that was greater than the sum of its “plates”. Dessert was not an option after eating every bit of our meal; it must be delicious, however, in that the menu proudly displays Tula’s use of Thomas Sweet ice cream in every dessert.

For a little more than the price of a "'Boli and a Beer", one can have a wonderful evening out in a terrific atmosphere. Make a reservation ASAP for a table near the front on a balmy evening. The windows open floor to ceiling, feeling like an Old World bistro. As you see the last rays of the Tuscan sun dip below the horizon, your senses will feel as if you are in Europe, without ever having left idyllic New Jersey.

Marita's Cantina

The words “authentic” and “Tex-Mex” are found together in a food review about as frequently as the appearance of Halley’s Comet. If this is what one prefers, look no further. From start to finish, Marita’s Cantina is the epitome of “Tex-Mex”. The menus were delivered with corn chips and salsa. Not too spicy, not sweet or plain, it was predictably predictable. To start we ordered the “go to” appetizer of American dining out- Artichoke and Spinach Cheese dip. We each ordered an entrée from the specials menu. Spicy Tequila Shrimp over a bed of penne pasta, and Chicken Ensenada.

The pasta and shrimp dish is most accurately described by calling it “spicy macaroni and cheese” topped with shrimp. The Chicken Ensenada was marginally better, the chicken breast grilled but still moist. Unfortunately, this was covered with liquid queso, canned jalapenos, musty olives and a few pieces of chopped tomatoes. If dining out with friends who like bland food, this is the perfect place to bring them.

As uninspiring as the food was, the staff and service were the exact opposite. We were greeted the moment we walked in the door by a friendly host. Shown to our seat, our waitress arrived shortly, and our drinks were out in a flash. The Spinach and Artichoke Cheese dip, 3 different types of piping hot cheese melting over the side, arrived on the table. The chips, freshly from the fryer, were still glistening with oil like a disco ball in dim light. The smell of the fresh cheese jumped from the plate, with the earthy smell of the fresh corn chips lingering behind. The manager was even walking around, ensuring diners were happy and that the food was hot & expeditiously served.

We decided very early on that the tequila we had with the hot, melted cheese dip was the best part of the meal, and so decided to stay at the bar after dinner. The drinks are strong, the bar tenders attentive, and the drinks are strong. The DJ was just starting his set, and the music was a thorough review of hip-hop.

Marita’s is not a restaurateur’s restaurant. However, if you’re looking to avoid the sweating throngs of drunken AXE wearing 21 year olds, or young women holding hands pushing rudely through crowds, Marita’s is your place. The eclectic crowd, attentive staff, spacious layout, different DJ’s 4 nights a week, and yes, strong drinks, make it a great place for night life in New Brunswick. Your next night out, arrive at 10pm, order an appetizer, enjoy a margarita, and put on your dancing shoes. You’ll be hungry when you leave at 2am, but this is New Brunswick-- just order pizza.

**Credit Cards as well as RU Express are taken here. Reservations not necessary.**

'Spice In' Indian Restaurant

The meal started the minute we walked through the door- the exotic smells emanating from every copper dish were intoxicating. In a stupor from the smell, one is tempted to obnoxiously point to a dish and exclaim to one’s waiter, “I WANT THAT!” That must happen a lot, because every member of the staff, from busboy to owner, can deftly explain every dish on the menu.

To begin, the complimentary hors d’oeuvres were a very thin cracker, the taste disarming at first. Caraway seeds are usually only found in rye bread; here they are in the cracker dough, giving it a nice, slightly bitter flavor that clears the palate and prepares one for the meal. The crackers are served with 2 sauces, a green pepper purée which is just spicy enough, and a brown sauce, which is a tamarind and honey sauce. The best way to describe it would be a sweet, Indian BBQ sauce. Tamarind trees are numerous in southern India, yet the acidic, sweet flavor is found only 1 place in Western cooking: Worcestershire sauce.

Upon the arrival of the main course, a steaming copper bowl and spoon accompany a copper tray of Basmati rice to the table. This allows for a perfect amount of rice and sauce to be doled out, as well as allowing easy sharing with company. The first entrée we ordered was Chicken Korma. Large, moist chunks of chicken breast were served in a creamy sauce, flavored with yogurt, tomato, pepper, and mild curry. Served with a fresh parsley garnish, the verdant parsley on top of creamy orange sauce is visually stunning. Indian food novices, or those afraid of being overpowered, will surely love this dish. Also, a side order of naan (bread) can help dilute any flavors one finds too overwhelming.

The second entrée was Boti Kebab Masala, a lamb dish with an intense flavor. At once stunningly sweet and profoundly spiced, the red sauce was a perfect compliment to the grilled lamb. Although lamb can sometimes be gamey, the grilling, accompanied by the sweet yet spicy sauce, allows the true flavor of the lamb to the foreground. If the gods drink ambrosia, they certainly dine on Boti Kebab Masala.

Stuffed at this point, we were unable to eat dessert. Worth trying, however, are the fruit juice, smoothie-like drinks, either as an appetizer or for dessert. Parking is difficult, so consider walking or taking the EE bus. A lighter, fruity wine is preferable, as red wines begin to taste heavy and boring in comparison to the spicy food. There is no dress code, but Spice In is one of the few reasonably priced restaurants in New Brunswick that has cloth napkins and tablecloths- a definite plus. The simple, neat interior keeps the emphasis where it belongs…on the food.

In this week's issue of the New Brunswick Restaurant Guide, we review Efes Mediterranian Grill. (32 Easton Ave, 732 249 4100) Efes is at the corner of Easton Ave and Somerset Street, across from the Easton Ave apartments. The first thing one notices upon walking through the doors is the heavenly smell of roasting meat. Two spits of layered meat, their inverted cone shape helping to keep the meat moist, rotate in perpetuity, their aroma unchanged from the days of Constantinople. For gyro lovers, the chicken or lamb/beef combo are both hands down the best, and perhaps only traditional Gyro in the city. The décor is charming as well; wooden chairs and tables, wood paneling, and pictures of food and historical sights in Turkey go perfectly with the meal. In addition, the lively Turkish banter behind the counter only adds to the authenticity.

We started the meal the way all good meals begin- by uncorking a bottle of wine. Two appetizers followed: Ezme, a tomato, onion, parsley, walnut mixture, not unlike finely chopped salsa, with a thorough dose of Turkish spices on warm pita. Second was Spinach Tarator, a savory mixture of yogurt, sour cream, spinach, garlic and other herbs, and chopped walnuts. The consistency is like your grandmother’s sour-cream-and-onion-dip, but putting the Tarator in this category is nothing short of blasphemous. The cool, slightly bitter taste of the yogurt and garlic mixture atop a fresh, warm pita is worth losing your manners for as you say, “Mmmmmm” loud enough for the diners at the table next to you to hear.

As a bit of an intermezzo, we shared a bottle of Peach Nectar, a thick and rich drink which helped us decide on what to order for dinner. The nectar had hardly settled when the choice was made; Adana Yogurt Kebab. The main dish was the lamb and beef gyro meat, but what was underneath was the true treasure. Rather than served on a bed of rice, the gyro meat was served on top of yogurt soaked, or rather marinated, day old pita. This allowed the pita to have the bitter creaminess of a yogurt sauce, while at the same time soaking up the richness and the spices of the meat. Fantastic.

Not to be outdone, dessert came through solidly. The walnut and honey baklava, that is layers of philo dough with honey on each layer, was a delicious counterbalance to all the savory food beforehand. For 2 appetizers, 1 entrée, 1 dessert and 1 drink, the total was $30.44. So before bottle of wine and tip, a nice dinner for 2 was about $15 per person. Great place for a date, or for parties as large as ten. Reservations recommended for weekends while school is in session. BYOB. Remember: a meal without alcohol is like a meal without meat…Without it is fine, but with it is divine.