Wednesday, September 9, 2009

'Spice In' Indian Restaurant

The meal started the minute we walked through the door- the exotic smells emanating from every copper dish were intoxicating. In a stupor from the smell, one is tempted to obnoxiously point to a dish and exclaim to one’s waiter, “I WANT THAT!” That must happen a lot, because every member of the staff, from busboy to owner, can deftly explain every dish on the menu.

To begin, the complimentary hors d’oeuvres were a very thin cracker, the taste disarming at first. Caraway seeds are usually only found in rye bread; here they are in the cracker dough, giving it a nice, slightly bitter flavor that clears the palate and prepares one for the meal. The crackers are served with 2 sauces, a green pepper purée which is just spicy enough, and a brown sauce, which is a tamarind and honey sauce. The best way to describe it would be a sweet, Indian BBQ sauce. Tamarind trees are numerous in southern India, yet the acidic, sweet flavor is found only 1 place in Western cooking: Worcestershire sauce.

Upon the arrival of the main course, a steaming copper bowl and spoon accompany a copper tray of Basmati rice to the table. This allows for a perfect amount of rice and sauce to be doled out, as well as allowing easy sharing with company. The first entrée we ordered was Chicken Korma. Large, moist chunks of chicken breast were served in a creamy sauce, flavored with yogurt, tomato, pepper, and mild curry. Served with a fresh parsley garnish, the verdant parsley on top of creamy orange sauce is visually stunning. Indian food novices, or those afraid of being overpowered, will surely love this dish. Also, a side order of naan (bread) can help dilute any flavors one finds too overwhelming.

The second entrée was Boti Kebab Masala, a lamb dish with an intense flavor. At once stunningly sweet and profoundly spiced, the red sauce was a perfect compliment to the grilled lamb. Although lamb can sometimes be gamey, the grilling, accompanied by the sweet yet spicy sauce, allows the true flavor of the lamb to the foreground. If the gods drink ambrosia, they certainly dine on Boti Kebab Masala.

Stuffed at this point, we were unable to eat dessert. Worth trying, however, are the fruit juice, smoothie-like drinks, either as an appetizer or for dessert. Parking is difficult, so consider walking or taking the EE bus. A lighter, fruity wine is preferable, as red wines begin to taste heavy and boring in comparison to the spicy food. There is no dress code, but Spice In is one of the few reasonably priced restaurants in New Brunswick that has cloth napkins and tablecloths- a definite plus. The simple, neat interior keeps the emphasis where it belongs…on the food.

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